‘Guidebook’
Gym etiquette
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For your safety and that of your fellow gym-goers, do your best to give all climbers on the wall a wide berth. This includes not walking under climbers, and always asking before you move in close to offer assistance or a spot.
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When you see someone on the ground working the ropes, the entire area in front of them can be considered a fall zone. Walk behind belayers rather than in front to avoid crossing beneath a climber and to avoid disrupting the line of sight and concentration between a belayer and climber. This goes double for lead climbers and belayers!
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Spotting can be a helpful tool in the climbers’ toolkit, allowing the climber to perform riskier moves with lower risk of injury. However, spotting without consent is unacceptable and can be interpreted as a violation of personal space and boundaries. Always ask before spotting a climber, and ensure that both you and the climber are on the same page about what the spotting will entail. If you need spotting tips, ask a Boulders employee.
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Sharing beta, or advice on how to finish a climb, can be a super useful form of community problem solving, but be sure to ask the climber before you offer it. Some hardcore climbers only consider a climb “flashed” if it’s completed without beta, so giving it without asking first can ruin a climber's flash attempt. Moreover, some climbers just love the mental puzzle of figuring a climb out on their own. A simple “do you want some beta?” can go a long way!
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It’s easy to get tunnel vision when you’re super excited about a climb, but be sure to step back between attempts and give other climbers a go. On bouldering routes, a good rule of thumb is to limit yourself to one or two attempts on a busy route before stepping back and letting someone else give it a go. On rope routes, a few more attempts are usually appropriate, but be conscientious of keeping it to a minimum on high-value routes. If you’re looking to run laps or work an endurance exercise, aim to come into the gym during less-busy times, or pick routes that seem less popular.
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While someone is climbing, avoid yelling continuous advice or encouragement if they aren’t someone you know. Many climbers appreciate a bit of quiet to help maintain focus while climbing, and shouting unsolicited advice can come across as beta spraying. If you’re unsure, you can always ask the climber (when they’re on the ground) if they prefer verbal encouragement or quiet during their climbs.
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Climbers always have the right of way in the gym. Before you begin a climb, look it over to ensure that it doesn’t cross paths with another route someone else is already on. If you find yourself intersecting with another climber and are unsure who got on the wall first, the harder grade or the “send go” typically has the right of way. If you’re warming up or not trying to send your project, giving up the right of way is always the thoughtful way to go.
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Especially in a busy gym, keeping at least one ear headphone-free can leave you open to hearing what’s going on around you. If you do have two headphones on, be extra aware of your surroundings and ensure you’re double-checking all routes and paths of travel.
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Working climbs together can be a great way to develop friendships and climbing partnerships in the gym. If you see someone working a problem you’re interested in, ask to join in! Avoid giving unsolicited advice or talking down on the climb, but do give encouragement and talk through beta possibilities together!
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If you notice someone trying hard on a climb that would be a warmup for you, it’s always polite to warm up on a different climb instead of jumping on their project.
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If you’re climbing in a large group, be mindful of the amount of space you’re taking up in the gym and ensure that you’re still allowing people who aren’t in your group to take their turn on the climbs. If possible, splitting into smaller groups of 2-4 can help ease your movement around the gym.
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If you’d like to record your send, we’re all for it! Just make sure no one else is in your shot, and if there are multiple climbers around you it’s kind to give them a heads-up before you record so they can avoid walking in front of your camera.
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While some people love to use the gym to make new friends and meet people, others use it as a quiet personal time to unwind and focus. While we encourage you to chat with people if that’s what you like to do, just be aware of any signals other climbers may give that they’d prefer to climb on their own.
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Avoid bringing anything onto the climbing floor that isn’t necessary for climbing. Climbing shoes, chalk, (belay device and harness), and potentially a personal device should be the only things with you while climbing. Keep these items close to you, consolidated, out of your pockets, and out of the fall zone for other climbers.
Links
Terms and Jargon
General Terms
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Single color of holds arranged to make a climb
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Difficulty of the problem, V-scale or Yosemite scale, see cards at the start of the route/problem. Can be very subjective, but we shoot for accuracy and consistency.
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Feels like an easier climb than the given grade.
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Feels like a harder climb than the given grade.
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Information on a climb, specifics on the moves used to complete it.
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The hardest move or part of a problem/route.
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Noun: A route or boulder one works on repeatedly.
Verb: the act of working one or more difficult moves on a route out-of-sequence.
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Like an email leaving your outbox, sending means completing a climb from start to finish, in one go!
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Finishing a climb by going over the top of the wall (Eastside only)
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Completing a climb on your very first try, without seeing any previous beta
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Unintentionally touching the ground or a hold that is not “on” or part of the problem, maybe a hold of a different color than the problem/route you are climbing.
Technique/movement
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Holding your leg in a position not in contact with a hold to maintain balance, rather than support weight.
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Using the back of the heel to apply pressure to a hold for balance or leverage.
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Using the top of your toe to pull your body in towards the wall.
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Using the edges of your shoe to pull your body in towards the wall.
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Using the same hand you just used to go for the next hold, typically spending a short amount of time on the initial hold.
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Putting both hands or feet on the same hold
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A jump from hold to another, usually with your entire body leaving the wall, but with at least three points of contact leaving the wall at once.
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Style of climbing that incorporates slow, controlled movement and typically maintaining three points of contact.
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Style of climbing using body momentum to reach the next hold.
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Climbing using only hands and no feet
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Using the sole of your climbing shoe on the wall without using a foothold.
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Can refer to a hold or a movement. To complete a gaston, you grab a hold oriented perpendicular to the ground with your thumb facing downwards, and push away from yourself (the opposite of a side pull).
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a movement in which you brace your knee and foot of the same leg between one or more holds to help support your weight. A great kneebar can allow you to completely remove your hands from a climb (make sure you have a spotter!)
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A movement that requires the climber to extend their reach fully, without letting go of the wall.
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Wedging your foot in one or more holds so both your toe and heel are in contact with the hold. This can allow you to gain leverage or take some of your weight.
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An ice climbing movement in which you lace one leg through your two outstretched arms, so that the inside of your knee rests between your elbow and shoulder. This provides additional friction force on that hand and can be used in lieu of a foot placement (make sure you have a spotter!)
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Swinging sideways away from the wall due to losing balance
Wall Shapes/ Features
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Less than vertical wall (climbs tend to be more technical, and reliant on feet)
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Wall that angles toward you (climbs tend to be more power focused, and reliant on upper body strength)
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The protruding feature where two climbing wall faces intersect. Otherwise, the outside corner of a climbing wall.
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The concave feature where two or more climbing faces intersect. The inside corner of a climbing wall.
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A large hold attached to the wall that may have additional holds attached to it. (always “on” or can be used on any climb)
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A feature built into the wall, rather than screwed on. Only at our Eastside gym.
Ropes
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the act of managing a rope while a climber climbs/the person who belays
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passive belay device consisting of a metal piece with 1-2 hole and a plastic/wire loop. The belayer feeds the rope through the ATC and uses its friction to stop a climber’s fall.
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An active belay device consisting of a camming mechanism and metal plates. The belayer feeds the rope though the gri-gri and relies on its internal camming mechanism to stop a climber’s fall.
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A carabiner attached to a piece of webbing attached to the wall. Lead climbers clip their rope into draws as they climb up the wall. Removable versions used in outdoor climbing are called quick draws.